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This smell is really horrible and spreads arround in the complete house.
This smell is really horrible and spreads arround in the complete house.


The reason seems to be using the heatbed at 120deg for drying silika for a long time-period (approx 8h).
The reason seems to be using the heatbed at 120deg for drying silika for a long time-period (> 8h).


Now I want to replace the heatplate of the bed.
Now I want to replace the heatplate of the bed, which smells like that bad taste.


Fabreeko offers heatbeds with suitable glue, or probably even without. But they are currently out of stock
Fabreeko offers heatbeds with suitable adhesive, or probably even without. But they are currently out of stock
and I dont know how to order from germany (probably quite expensive, when including shipping and taxes)
and I dont know how to order from Germany (probably quite expensive, when including shipping and taxes)


Does anyone has experience in using heatresistors for heating a 3D printer bed?
The idea raised up, to use heatresistors as replacement for the silicon mate.
My idea is as follows:
Drill 60 M3 threads into the back of the Aluminiumplate to fix 30×50W heatresistors, which should be sufficient for heating with 450W.
I would like to give that a try, but:
* Is there any conductive paste on the market, which does not smell (!)
* Does this work with the cartographer probe?
* Any other possible trouble, I have overseen?


I ordered 30 100Ohm resistors + HY510 thermal conductive paste and a few meter silkoncable
30 times 100 Ohm resistors (50 W) were skrewed to the aluminum plate into
Isolation is planned by using the outer insulator of the 3 wire silikoncables and glue them by using kapton-adhesive
60 M3 threads drilled into the back of the plate. This should be much more than enough to heat with approx 600 Watt.
Thermistor is not yet planned, probably an old one of my extruder, with a drilling at the side of the print-bed.
The resistors were connected 5 in series 6 times in parallel makes (500/6 Ohm = 83 Ohm). P=U²/R=230^2/83 Watt=640 Watt.


Estimation of the temperature fluctuation due to the distance of the load-resistors: [[Voron_TempFluct]]
HY510 was used as conductive paste, which seems to be a good compromise between quality and price.
This conductive paste can be used in a temperature range, which is far outside the usual use-cases for a 3D printer.
The 5 series resistors very soldered directly together, the endconnection was done via silconcables and wago-clamps


Before starting the build, I estimated, the temperature fluctuation due to the distance of the load-resistors: [[Voron_TempFluct]]


[[File:20251228_114337.jpg]]
[[File:20251226_120024.jpg|1024px|The first two are done]]
[[File:20251227_130642.jpg|1024px|All M3 done]]
[[File:20251228_114337.jpg|1024px|Alltogether]]
[[File:20251229_175255.jpg|1024px|New bedheater in action]]

Version vom 3. Januar 2026, 20:41 Uhr

My LDO Voron 2.4 350 Rev D started smelling very bad after approx 200h of printing over the last year. Please don't come with comments like "usual ABS SMELL". It is definitely not the ABS! This smell is really horrible and spreads arround in the complete house.

The reason seems to be using the heatbed at 120deg for drying silika for a long time-period (> 8h).

Now I want to replace the heatplate of the bed, which smells like that bad taste.

Fabreeko offers heatbeds with suitable adhesive, or probably even without. But they are currently out of stock and I dont know how to order from Germany (probably quite expensive, when including shipping and taxes)

The idea raised up, to use heatresistors as replacement for the silicon mate.

30 times 100 Ohm resistors (50 W) were skrewed to the aluminum plate into 60 M3 threads drilled into the back of the plate. This should be much more than enough to heat with approx 600 Watt. The resistors were connected 5 in series 6 times in parallel makes (500/6 Ohm = 83 Ohm). P=U²/R=230^2/83 Watt=640 Watt.

HY510 was used as conductive paste, which seems to be a good compromise between quality and price. This conductive paste can be used in a temperature range, which is far outside the usual use-cases for a 3D printer. The 5 series resistors very soldered directly together, the endconnection was done via silconcables and wago-clamps

Before starting the build, I estimated, the temperature fluctuation due to the distance of the load-resistors: Voron_TempFluct

The first two are done All M3 done Alltogether New bedheater in action